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Questions
& Answers - Herbs
| Coriander |
From
Sandra, UK |
 |
I have just started growing herbs and my coriander has flowered
so there is no longer usebale leaves on it. Is there anything
I can do to get the leaves back which can be used in cooking
|
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From Paul, London
This is the nature of coriander. Try spreading out the sowing
of the seeds
in batches over several weeks so that each batch reaches a usable
size just
as the last lot is going to seed or is used up. There is another
plant with
similar flavour and growth which will regrow leaves once cut back,
but it is
not truly coriander - I think it is called Italian Parsley, but
I wouldn't
like to make any promises based on that!
Can any other Gardeners
Club
members help out?
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here if you can help
|
Garlic
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From:
Barbara, UK |
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I have saved some seeds from my elephant garlic - when and how can
I sow them?
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From Mr Clark, UK
TRY PRESSING CLOVES OF THE GARLIC IN CULTIVATED SOIL OR MULTI-PURPOSE
COMPOST;THE TOP TIP OF CLOVE JUST SHOWING OUT OF THE SOIL OR COMPOST.
Can
any other Gardeners
Club
members help Barbara out?
Click here
if you can help |
Herbs
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From:
James F, UK |
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Hi. I need help. I have recently bought some herbs to grow under
my back porch. I have Rosemary, Coriander, Mint, Sweet Basil, French
Parsley and Chives. They were taking really well and had started
growing quite nicely, especially the Coriander and Mint. But now
it seems, a week later, the herbs are dying off. Some of the leaves
are yellowing and the chives are looking very 'sick'. I have watered
them once a day, every day - usually in the evening when I get home
from work - about a pint each time. Or have I watered them too much.
I used quite a fine potting compost, so might they need feeding?
Any pointers about what I should do to grow my herbs and maintain
them I would be most grateful.
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From NGA Advisor Conrad Richter
Herbs That Grow Well Indoors
Not every herb likes indoor life. Coriander (cilantro), garden cress,
and dill are short-lived annuals that, when cut for harvest, do
not regrow. You have to resow these herbs to produce a continuous
crop. Three pots of each plant, each at a different stage (seeded,
intermediate growth, and ready to cut), are usually enough. Forget
trying to grow coriander, dill, or other spice herbs indoors for
their seeds: They won't set enough to warrant the effort.
You can grow parsley in pots, but I prefer to bring in established
plants from the garden at the end of the season. The older leaves
will fall off, but the thick taproot will drive new growth from
the center. However, parsley grown indoors from seed never reaches
the size and productivity of plants dug from the garden. That's
why I dig outdoor plants in fall and bring them inside. Keep the
soil around the taproot intact, and be sure to use a pot that's
deep enough to accommodate the root.
Unless light is plentiful, growth of most indoor herbs will slow
or even stop during the winter, even with enough warmth. When growth
slows, reduce harvests and hold back a little on the water. Reducing
the indoor temperature to 60o to 65oF, if possible, also helps.
French tarragon and chives in particular benefit from a cool period.
When growth flags in winter, place them in an unheated shed or garage
(or in the refrigerator) for a month or two; freezing temperatures
are fine. When returned to room temperature and good light, they'll
put out succulent new growth.
My mother, co-founder of Richters Herbs, grows herbs indoors in
window boxes. She "plants" herbs in their pots in a window
box filled with soil up to the rim of the pots. This system may
seem odd, because the roots can only get at the soil outside through
the holes in the pots. But herbs do precisely that, with faster
and more lush growth than in stand-alone pots. The extra soil prevents
the plants from becoming potbound, humidity and soil moisture remain
more even, and the herbs seem to grow better. Also, the roots don't
become so intertwined that it's difficult to rearrange or replace
plants. A firm yank dislodges them.
How to Grow Herbs Indoors
Herbs are sun worshipers for the most part. As expatriates of the
Mediterranean region, most flavorful herbs don't thrive in the un-Mediterranean
environment and inadequate light our houses provide. Herbs don't
tolerate north-facing windows, or any window that gets less than
four hours of direct sunshine a day.
Provide Light
Even if your indoor herbs get their four hours of direct sunshine
daily, installing supplementary lighting is a necessity. The light
coming through a window may seem bright to your eyes, but its intensity
in winter is often less than one-tenth of the outdoor light during
a summer day. Grow lights will work if their light intensity is
high enough and the spectral quality is right.
Acclimate Plants Gradually
Plants produce two kinds of leaves in response to strong or weak
light. High-light leaves are thick, strong, and narrow. Low-light
leaves are thinner, more delicate, and broader than high-light leaves.
But narrow high-light leaves are less efficient in converting light
energy into food than low-light leaves. High-light leaves are accustomed
to an abundance of light, so they don't have be as efficient at
food production. A plant that is adapted to abundant light often
turns brown and drops leaves indoors. This is because it can't produce
enough food to maintain itself. The plant tries to make food by
shedding the inefficient leaves and producing efficient leaves higher
up and closer to the light source. When you bring herbs indoors,
this leaf drop and increased leggy growth can happen within weeks,
or even days. Some herbs cannot make the transition fast enough
to survive.
Rosemary is a case in point. This slow-growing evergreen doesn't
have the chance to adjust to changes in light before the plant slowly
starves itself. By January, February, or March, the leaves dry up,
and the plant dies. This sudden death is by far the most common
complaint about growing rosemary indoors. Here's what to do: Gradually
adjust the plant to lower light. Place it in partial shade for two
to three weeks, then in deeper shade for another two to three weeks
before bringing it indoors. When plenty of new growth appears, the
plant is ready to go into the house.
Soil, Fertilizer, and Water
After light, proper soil is the next most important factor in producing
healthy herbs. With few exceptions, herbs require excellent drainage,
especially during the winter months, when transpiration rates are
lowest (that's the rate at which plants release water from their
leaves to the atmosphere). When roots are confined in a pot or planter,
water and air cannot move easily. To improve drainage without sacrificing
nutrients, add sharp sand or perlite to a good sterilized compost-based
mix. Most herbs do well in soils of pH 6 to 7.
Many people incorrectly think that herbs grow better in poor soil.
Flavors are stronger when culinary herbs grow outdoors in gardens.
But in the confines of a pot, supplementary feedings with liquid
fertilizer or organic fish emulsion are necessary. Feed herbs once
a week when plants are actively growing, but not when dormant.
Watering is not a trivial matter with herbs. In general, water less
often and more thoroughly, and only when the soil is actually dry.
When the soil is dry to the touch, add water until it comes out
the bottom of the pot. If the water doesn't come out, pots have
a drainage problem. First, check that the holes aren't blocked;
if not, you may have to repot with soil that has better drainage.
Pests and Diseases
Herbs are susceptible to common pests, including whiteflies, spider
mites, aphids, mealybugs, scale insects, and thrips. Inspect herbs
regularly.
If your herbs are in portable containers, control pests by dipping
the whole aboveground part of the plant into a pail of insecticidal
soap. Swish vigorously for a minute or two to wet all leaf surfaces
(hold your hand over the pot to prevent soil loss). Dipping herbs
once or twice a week for three to four weeks will clear up most
problems.
Newcomers and Old Favorite Herbs to Grow Indoors
In recent years, many new varieties of herbs have been introduced,
some of which do better indoors than the traditional varieties.
Here are 10 herbs notable for their consistent, compact growth habit
and strong flavor.
'Grolau' chives (Allium schoenoprasum): Strong flavor and thick,
dark green leaves. Developed for forcing, 8 to 12 inches tall. Seeds
germinate in 10 to 14 days at 60o to 68oF.
'Fernleaf' dill (Anethum graveolens): Dwarf form of dill only 18
inches tall. Ideal for dill weed indoors. Standard varieties grow
too tall and bolt too soon. Easy from seeds, germinating in 7 to
14 days at 60o to 68oF.
'English' mint (Mentha spicata): Perhaps the best-behaved spearmint
variety (not as invasive as others, and the leaves are broader and
deeper green). Excellent for cooking and tea. Easy to propagate
from cuttings.
'Spicy Globe' basil (Ocimum basilicum minimum): Dense, compact form
of basil, 8 to 10 inches tall. Good flavor. Grow from seed; germinates
in 6 to 12 days at 68o to 77oF.
Greek oregano (Origanum vulgare hirtum): The true oregano for Mediterranean
cooking, with excellent flavor and white flowers. Watch out for
the impostor (called wild marjoram) with pink flowers and no flavor.
Greek oregano grows well in pots, reaching 8 to 12 inches. Grows
easily from seed in 7 to 21 days at 65o to 72oF.
Broadleaf thyme (Plectranthus amboinicus or Coleus amboinicus):
Also known as Spanish thyme and Cuban oregano, this plant has broad,
fleshy leaves unlike those of ordinary thyme. Wonderful, spicy thyme-oregano
flavor and useful in many of the same recipes as ordinary thyme.
Never goes dormant. Grows from cuttings only, and reaches 10 to
12 inches tall.
Vietnamese coriander (Polygonum odoratum): Not true coriander, but
a good substitute. Regrows after cutting, unlike true coriander,
which must be reseeded after harvest. Grows 4 to 8 inches tall.
Propagate from cuttings.
'Blue Boy' rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis): More compact and diminutive
than regular rosemary, reaching only 24 inches. Flowers freely and
has excellent flavor. Propagated by cuttings only.
Dwarf garden sage (Salvia officinalis 'Compacta'): Smaller leaves
and more compact habit than regular sage, growing only 10 inches
high. Same sage flavor. Propagated by cuttings only; seeds are unavailable.
Creeping savory
(Satureja repandra or S. spicigera): Flavor identical to that of
winter savory, but easier and faster to grow indoors. Reaches only
2-4 inches in height, but fills the pot with a dense mat of foliage.
Difficult to find seeds, but grows readily from cuttings.
Can any other Gardeners Club
members help James out?
Click here
if you can help |
|
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