These sections are updated regularly with all of the answered questions that pass through the
Gardeners Club, so click back and check each section periodically for future assistance in your garden.


Posting a question

If your question has not been covered already click here to ask a question


Questions & Answers - Diseased Fruit and Vegetables

Cane Blight
From: CDexter C, UK



Last year, I experienced skeletonised bottom section of canes.(They are open plan at the front with an 8ft brick wall behind them) There has been no effect to the fruit whatsoever. This year, there has been skeletonising of the leaves to the top of almost all the canes except for the end corner section which is almost untouched. The only differences this time is that we have potatoes growing the full length of the front (8ft).
We have raspberry canes with an old kids swing frame with hanging baskets and flower pouches with strawberried. There are tomatoes and various flowers also growing in them.
I see no alternative but to cut the raspberry canes to the ground instead of waiting till the end of the year. Please acknowledge and advise in case there is a chance of the tops of the plants fruiting which are still untouched by it all.

From Alex M, UK

Hi CD
I think you may have cane blight. If I am correct you should see a dark area on your canes just above ground level and the remainder of the cane will be quite brittle.

Cure:- Cut out all diseased canes to below ground level and spray the new canes with a copper fungicide e.g Bordeaux Mixture to manufacturers instruction........A

From CD

I have now come to the conclusion it is Viral Cane Blight. I Intend To Spray the said plants with Bourdeaus Mixture After they Start to Grow In again As I Cut them to Ground Level Recently. CD

From CD

I sprayed with Bordeaux Mixture last year and cut the remaining shoots to ground level. Now 1/2 that space of raspberry shoots is growing as if it never happened!



Can any other Gardeners Club members help CDexter out?

Click here if you can help

Curly Leaf From Linda, UK



Do you have any idea how to rid my peach tree from curly leaf?





From Clare, Gardeners Club Secretary*
Peach leaf curl is very hard to control and it will be too late to do much about it this year. However, there are things you can do to help prevent an outbreak next year.

Pick off badly affected leaves as soon as they are seen, and before they develop a bloom of spores. Dispose of them to reduce the source of infection for next year. Make sure the tree has enough food and water to promote the growth of healthy new leaves.

Once peach leaf curl gets a hold it is very difficult to control. I would recommend keeping the tree covered with plastic from January to April next year to protect it from the rain. Make sure it is kept ventilated and that the roots are able to receive water.

Use copper-based fungicides approved for use on fruit, such as Murphy Traditional Copper Fungicide or Vitax Bordeaux Mixture. Spray in late January or early February and again two weeks later. Aim to get complete coverage of the entire tree, but finish spraying before the flower buds begin to open. Spray again in the autumn, just before the leaves begin to fall.

Can any
Gardeners Club members help out?

Click here if you can help


Leaf Curl - Tomatoes
From: George H, UK



How does one differentiate between Tomato Mosaic Virus and magnesium deficiency? The leaves on some of my tomato plants show yellowing between the veins of the leaves and they are curling and drooping. I have been feeding them daily with 'Homebase' tomato feed with added magnesium. George

From Louise S, UK

It depends which leaves are drooping - its quite normal for the lower leaves
on the plants to turn yellow as the plant matures; all you need to do is
pull them off. If you are feeding with Tomato fertiliser, with magnesium,
its pretty unlikely this is magnesium deficiency.

If it were mosaic virus the whole plant will look very poorly, growth will be badly stunted, and fruiting poor ( if any ). If this is the case, its terminal, so pull the plants up and destroy them.


Can any other Gardeners Club members help George out?

Click here if you can help

Strawberry Mould
From: Julie D, UK



Hi, I wonder if you can help. I am growing 2nd year stawberries and I seem to
have some problems.

1 is that they are rotting, I am not sure if this is due to lack of sunshine. I have put straw down on them but this is now damp due to rain would this be the problem?

2 Also at the top of the Strawberry near the stem the fruit seems to be splitting or looks like something has crawled over it, i did see a spider on one, but unsure if this was the culprit, I don't think it is slugs as I put down pellets..? Can you help?

From Michael Barratt, the Gardeners Club resident gardener

If the strawberries are rotting, do they have a greyish mould on them first? If so this is botrytis grey mould brought on by damp humid weather. Unfortunately this year has created ideal conditions for all manner of diseases to proliferate. Spraying with benomyl or similar systemic fungicide will help to protect from attack. The splitting of the fruit could be brought about by irregular watering be it by the weather or manually. It might be worth experimenting by growing some strawberries in a strawberry pot where you would have greater control over drainage etc. The only spider likely to attack strawberry is Red spider mite. Tiny red spiders run over the plants creating a webbing as they go, but also causing mottling of the leaves. Again a good systemic insecticide will keep these at bay.


Can any Gardeners Club members help Julie out?

Click here if you can help

Previous Q & A's
sorted by category


Composting

Flowers

Lawns

Pest, Diseases and Weeds

Ponds

Sundries (non-plant)

Seeds and Bulbs

Trees and Shrubs

Fruit and Vegetables