These sections are updated regularly with all of the answered questions that pass through the
Gardeners Club, so click back and check each section periodically for future assistance in your garden.


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Questions & Answers - Other Lawns

Burnt Lawn From Tracy, UK


Hi, my lawn is only just over 12 months old and was up until recently my pride and joy - I used miracle grow lawn food (attach to the hose) but noticed that the undiluted solution was leaking out of the top. This has caused brown burnt like areas all over my lawn.

Can this possibly be repaired of do I go for new turf?

Regards.
Tracy.


From Clare, Gardeners Club Secretary
I would dig out the damaged turf and replace with new turf or reseed. Cut around the damaged area with a half moon edging iron and lift the damaged turf. Lightly fork over the soil, level and firm lightly. Add a little compost to improve the soil. Rather than using normal seed you will achieve better results by using pre-germinated seed. Add enough seed to some moist compost in a bucket and cover with Clingfilm. Place somewhere warm - no higher than 15oC. After a few days you should see signs of the small white root appearing from the seed. You are then ready to sow; make sure you keep the compost moist after sowing. Cut a new piece of turf to fill the area. The turf or seed used should match the existing lawn. If this is not possible, remove a piece of turf from a less prominent area of the garden.

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Camomile Lawn
From: Alan N, UK



I would like to replace the grass lawn in a shaded area of my garden with a 'lawn' of herbs or similar scented plants. My only requirements are that the plants should be hardwearing (although this area is not an area of particularly heavy traffic), grow in the shade, and smell nice when you walk on them.

Any helpful ideas would be very much appreciated



From Alex M, UK

I think what you are getting at is a 'chamomile' lawn, if I am correct! then I am sorry you will have to forfeit the 'hardwearing' aspect. To overcome this you could insert stepping stones (there are various ones on the market). I don't know if you have any gardening books or gardening literature, if you have look up Anthemis noblis or alternatively Chamaemelum nobile (the correct names).
The variety you are looking for is 'Treneague'.

Set plants out 6" (150mm) apart each way in March/April.This can make your lawn quite expensive if however you tackle it in parts, you can take cuttings between May and August. To take cuttings insert them in a mix of Peat & sharp sand (50/50by vol) then place in coldframe to plant out from September onwards. This is also a method of repairing bald patches that may appear due to trafficing.


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Couch Grass From Louise, Durham



We have a problem with couch grass along a border fence with a neighbour. It is also appearing amongst our planted borders. Is there an appropriate weedkiller to deal with the grass along the border fence at least, even if it is not possible to apply the same in the flower border.




From Clare, Gardeners Club Secretary*
Couch grass can be a real pain to eradicate from the garden as you only need to leave a few small pieces of broken root in the soil and it will start growing again. Remove any sprouting couch grass and try a Glyphosate product such as Round-up applied carefully to the couch grass. This practice could be tricky to use in the flower beds as you don't want to kill off your cultivated plants, so try using a guard such as a tube of rolled card board and place this over the couch grass then spray down the tube directly onto the couch grass.

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Dogs
From: Sue P, UK



Hello! We had turf laid a few months back and our two bitches thought it was wonderful having grass where previously we'd had patio and so watered(!) the lawn everywhere. As a result, we have lots of bare patches which have been burned by their urine. Is it possible to re-seed the patches and is there anything I can do to lessen the effect in the future as they will obviously continue to water the lawn? Is there a chemical which will neutralise the effect? Thanks



From CD, UK

I had 2 Bitches & 1 Dog. They urinated all over the back lawn, leaving pot holes and dead grass. It recovered after treatment: removing the dead grass by trimming it with scissors, sprinkle multi-purpose compost over these small areas and sprinkle some grass seeds on these areas, adding a little more of said compost over these areas. Leave till after germination then add soluble Nitrogen fertiliser, watered into these areas. Stand back and let nature take it's course.


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Dry Patches
From: Lynn, UK



I have had turf laid. The trouble is, I have dry patches every where - what can I do? The rest of the grass has grown really well... HELP



From CD, UK

I had the same problem but caused by 2 female dogs. What I did was trim down the patchy areas to ground level with scissors. Then sprinkle potting compost, then grass seeds and then potting compost again. Then sprinkle peat moss over the whole lawned area allowing nature to take it's course.


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Flooding
From: Kay, UK



New house, lovely big garden, or so I thought until it rained. The garden floods everytime there is a heavy downpour. It takes days to finally drain away. Has anyone any suggestions? From a novice gardener



From Mr Clark, UK

Buy and use what looks like a hand push lawnmower. Instead of blades it has rows of spikes. The spikes aerate the soil and allow free drainage. Spike the ground all over by pushing it in a forward direction. Try places like B&Q or Focus Do-It-All for one. Also there is the Black & Decker Lawnraker for £70 or the Spiker from Index for £25

From Jo, UK

Hello Kay
New garden - wonderful times ahead planning and planting!

Re flooding - is this a new new house (i.e. newly built) or an older house you've newly bought (if you see what I mean)?
If it's a newly built house I'd go out into the garden and dig a few 2-3ft holes to see what you've got under the surface. It may be that it is full of builders rubble with only a thin skim of earth on top (although that should actually drain quite well).
I suspect though that, like me, your house could be built on clay! Clay basically floods in Winter, and cracks open in Summer. The only way to deal with it is to dig in loads and loads of manure, compost, etc.etc. (or, like me, give up and cover it with black liner and put pretty gravel on top!). A rotovator comes in handy, so does a wheelbarrow 'cos you need to dig it in to a depth of at least 2ft I think. Water can't drain away in clay as the soil particles are so close together. And....the more you walk on it the harder it compacts. Let us know how you get on!

From Roger, UK

Hi Kay.
Although I live in the south east we do get rain. My garden is 300ft long and fairly narrow. It is based on clay. My answer was to put a 4in drain pipe all the way down one side of the garden with holes in it to let the water in. At the lowest point I built a man hole 2ft x 3ft and put a submersible pump at the bottom. This starts up automatically when needed and pumps the water away, in my case, a present to the farmer at the bottom of the garden. Although this may sound expensive, it is mostly hard work digging the pipe in. Pumps cost around £50.00 plus VAT.
As I said at the top I live in the south east on the Isle of Grain, I'm always pleased to see visitors.


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Flower bed From Lauri, UK



I would like to make a new flower bed over an existing lawn that is up against the basement wall of my home.
I will be using about two feet of earth to build up the depth of the new bed being held in with a rock border. My question is do I have to remove the grass or can I add the earth over it? Will the grass come up through that much earth? I feel there is enough drainage because of the gravel under the grass and the weeping tile around the basement but I don't want to see grass coming up or will I have to do it the hard way and remove the grass before hand.




From Angela, Gardeners Club Secretary*
If you're beginning a new flowerbed in an area that is lawn, you will need to eliminate the grass or you run the risk of the grass roots returning as weeds in your flowerbed. It's better to remove the dig the lawn up entirely. Be sure the soil is moist, but not wet or soggy, when you begin working.

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Lawn Side Flower Beds
From: Angela M, UK



I am a novice gardener but I do take an interest in keeping my garden nice. So I would like some help regarding my front garden which is very plain - just grass. I would like to make a few flower beds to put some bulbs in to liven it up - please can you advise me as to how I go about preparing a flower bed or even a rockery?



From Elizabeth, UK

How exciting for you to have a fresh space to make a brand new beautiful spot in your garden. You could make borders all around your grassed area and I would certainly keep that in mind but should only start with one otherwise you will be in a mad dash to get all four borders filled. Start with the one that divides you form your neighbour. Make it the broadest - no more than 3ft. (to start with). Remove the grass, stack it up somewhere, it could make the base of your compost heap. Dig the ground well, add some Compost ( end of line Growbags are good buys for this purpose) some fine grit and Horse manure if you can get it - Look in the 'phone book for Riding Stables and pay them a visit, they are usually very pleased to sell you some fairly reasonably. Leave it all to settle but keep giving it a fork over every now and then ........... don't be in a hurry to plant anything yet. Meanwhile have a look in your local garden Centre for end of line Daffodills. You can usually find them in sacks, quite cheaply. Keep them in a dry, darkish place until your soil is ready.
Now is the time to think about plants - if you have a fence between you and your neighbour you could put some coated wire along the length of it to support the plants you will eventually have. I say coated wire because bare wire can get very hot in sunshine and burn stems cligning to it. Finish off your soil with a topping of medium Bark. It looks nice, gives a nice finish and helps to keep the weeds down.
Think about Tall Roses, Honeysuckle, Clematis or a variety of Ivies as a backdrop for your border plants.
The first things you should plant are your Spring flowering bulbs, put them in fairly deep, in fat clumps rather than rows, then plant some Aubretia which will stay evergreen on top so that you won't forget where they are..... next year when the bulbs have finished flowering the Aubretia is very handy to tuck their leaves under while they are fading and looking very untidy.
Tall Roses !? Well, there is plenty of choice but mine would be Queen Elizabeth (pink) , Mountbatten (yellow), Just Joey (coppery pink, Mme Hardy (white.
For this summer I would just stick to annuals ...... clumps of Lobelia both dark and light blue, Livingston Daiseys, Marigolds ..........I know these don't sound very exciting but I think they will serve the purpose for this year.
Next year you will have time to plan ahead and order or grow from seed better plants of your choice.
By the Autumn you will be able to start on your other borders, I would be more than willing to offer advice if you wish to plan and get your ground ready in good time .... there is nothing like the nip of winter to break new ground up.
I do hope that I have been able to help you my dear and I do wish you well with your new garden. I would be most interested in how you get on and would be very pleased indeed to hear from you.
Yours sincerely, Elizabeth.
e-mail........ cushy_butterfield@manx.net(1)

From Alex M, UK

Hi Angela, Go into Ask the NGA on previous page of the Gardeners Club, Q&A section then click on "How to projects", click on " Lawns & Landscape, click on "more>>> and this will fetch you up some relatively simple instructions. Once you have mastered this get back to us through the club and we will help you to put the finishing touches to your plan.....A

From Mr Clark, UK

Also do not forget to add the lawn grass clippings in the basic conditioning of the flower beds, dug in with some small gravel to help maintain good drainage to the beds. We do not want the plants to stop growth because of waterlogging. Also use them as a mulch. I would plant an island bed of bulb plants; dafodils, tulips, gladiolia, all in the same bed. A continual flow of flowering plants with little or no further maintenance required. Some will multiply in the same area as the years go by.



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Lawn on Concrete?
From: Jane SF, UK



My sister is buying a house with a patio garden which is entirely concreted. She wants a small area of grass. If she puts in a retaining wall around the area she wants to be lawned with drainage holes at the bottom of the wall, and fill it with top soil, can she grow grass in it? Or does she need to take up the concreted area beneath it? Many thanks

From Alex M, UK

Have you considered a "chamomile lawn", this flowers, is aromatic and is moss like in appearance. However it can't be treated like a lawn as it is not as hard wearing as grass.

From Mr Clark, UK

There is a form of imitation lawn - a bit like carpet that you roll out. Some years ago, I saw it advertised. I would try the carpet and floor covering suppliers for starters.


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New Lawn - seeds
From: Lorna, UK



Hello, could you tell me how to plant grass seeds properly please?
I'm a bit of a novice and would appreciate any help you can give me.
Kind regards, Lorna


From Peter D, UK

Hello Lorna.
Prepare the site by breaking up or removing any clumps of soil larger than a golf ball, also any perennial weed roots and debris. Level the site - or make the surface even, as a lawn can of course be created on a slope. This will eliminate the possibility of hollows that may remain over-wet and bumps that will be skimmed by the mower. Do not dig deeply other than to remove any tap rooted perennials as this will cause uneven settling of the soil after sowing. Apply a general fertiliser at the rate of a two handfuls per sq mtr - or go by the pack instructions. Rake this in bringing the seed bed to a fine tilth. Tread over the entire area to firm down the soil and finally rake level. Sow the grass seed at the packets recommended rate or 2-3 ozs per sq yd. raking into the top 1cm of soil. The seed may be carefully broadcast by hand on smaller sites and a lawn seed spreader purchased for large areas. If a very light roller is available the site may be rolled to firm in the seeds, otherwise just leave as sown.

Place canes around the site and use black cotton randomly from cane to cane across the the seeded area to fend off birds that will otherwise deplete the sowing. Watering should not be necessary if seeding is done at the recommended times of April/May and September. It is not a good plan to seed a lawn in summer unless you are prepared to water regularly in the event of drought. Annual weeds that will inevitably germinate owing to the preperation of the site will be eradicated on repeated mowiing of the established lawn. If the lawn is to be used for childrens play and sport buy grass seed for the purpose which will contain a good proportion of rye and bent species. Fine show lawn that will receive less traffic will require a high proportion of fescue species.

From Alex M, UK

Can I suggest you look under previous Q&A's under 'Lawns', I feel sure you will find all you require there. Also try looking in http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profiles0900/mn_lawns_seed_turf.asp


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Manageable
From: David L, UK



I have just moved into a house with a front and back garden the only thing wrong is that the grass is three foot deep and seeding how and what do I need to get to get back to a manageable lawn.



From Alex M, UK

Hi David, you ask:- how and what do I need to get to get back to a manageable lawn.

The only way is hard work. Perhaps you could hire a strimmer to get the
lawn down to a length where you can use a lawnmower. You will find the grass at soil level is quite yellow and will remain so until new growth commences. In the Autumn you could apply an Autumn weed & feed lawn feed spread to the manufactures instructions. When you are in a position to cut it regularly with a lawn mower dont cut it too short and this will help the grass to become stronger growing and more lush. With a bit of luck next year your lawn will be much improved......A

From Mr Clark, UK

On you hands and knees, cut with sharp garden shears to a maximum of 2 inches. Once it shows signs of recovery, sprinkle on multi-purpose compost over the whole back and front lawned areas. Let it grow through and begin to cut the grass with the lawn mower blades at the highest adjustment.

From Bruce, UK

The other option is to start from scratch and buy new turf.


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Mushrooms

From Joyce & Clive, Harrogate



We have started to notice an increasing amount of mushrooms growing in the lawn of our garden could you tell us how to get rid of them?




From Clare, Gardeners Club Secretary*
Most fungi are beneficial, as they break down organic matter and release nutrients that are necessary for plant growth.
Unfortunately you cannot get rid of the fungi that produce the mushrooms. You can dig the roots up, however, this will not prevent the fungi from growing back. The fact that there are mushrooms indicates you have a high level of organic matter in your garden. Be careful not to add too much uncomposted organic matter to the garden but instead compost the material before applying it to the garden.


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No Grass!
From: Simon A, Swansea



I would like to know how to stop grass from growing. Being a complete novice I would like to completely cover my garden with bark and gravel and I do not know if grass will grow through. Is it easier to dig it all up or is there something on the market that would help. Yours hopefully, Simon.



From Jo, Devon, UK

Yes - the grass will most certainly grow through and the thought of digging it all up from my garden makes me shudder! I am about to do the same with my front garden and this is what I intend to do. Although I am usually an 'organic' gardener, I am dealing with couch grass so I shall have to use a product called 'Trik' (available from Farmers' Merchants). This will apparently kill anything, and form a barrier so nothing can grow through for at least 2 years (including seeds)! You could also use Glyphosate, but this does not form a barrier but becomes inactive on touching the soil and is a little friendlier!

The most important, and expensive part, is buying the plastic barrier which will form the base for the bark chips, gravel, etc. It comes in rolls from garden centres. Beware though, because cats absolutely adore gravel and will use it as a litter tray! On my clay, damp soil, slugs thrive so I cannot use bark chippings as the little blighters hide underneath it all and lay their eggs. I will use gravel and resign myself to picking up the cat droppings! Jo, Devon, UK

From Alex M, UK

Your answer is a weedkiller applied to the grass then cover the area with a permeable membrane before you lay your gravel/bark. The reason for a permeable membrane is this is porous (holed) to prevent water ponding on the surface and it excludes light to the grass/weeds that may grow from any seed that was around prior to the weedkiller application......A

From Mr Clark, UK

You can buy a solution to put on the lawn - it slows the growth of it. I am not sure what it is called but cricket club ground staff might know of it?

Bruce, UK

You can hire a machine which strips the turf off in easy strips - that's what we used when we went over to gravel. Remember though that you will still have to weed the gravel. The membrane helps but weeds can still grow through and as the years go on you get a build up of 'soil' - i.e. broken down leaves etc - on top of the membrane which then gives seeds a basis on which to grow - it can end up being more of a pain than just getting the mower out occasionally.

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Sloping
From: Steve, UK



Our sloping lawn is always wet. What is the best way to provide drainage?



From Mr Clark, UK

I have the same problem - our front lawn sloped at about 45 degrees to a concrete path at the front door area of the house. Waterlogged was not what I would have called it - more like walking on a wet sponge! As was the area on the other side of the concrete driveway and along the wall seperating the front garden from the back garden. So on the left hand side of the garage I dug up a 2 spade width border along the length of the wall & planted bulbs. Along the front path area I dug out 1 spade width along this line from the porch along to the hedge/garden boundary.


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Stipabarbata
From: Sandra B, UK



Where can I purchase the grass "Stipabarbata". I saw it when visiting Sissinghurst but have not been able to find it in any garden centre I have been to.
Thank you



From Michael Barratt, the Gardeners Club resident gardener

If you go to www.websprint.com this site has a large variety of grasses for sale mail order.



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Weeds
From: Tom, UK



My garden is more like a meadow than a lawn with dandelions, daisies, weeds and moss all over it.
How can I transform it into a nice lawn without relaying it?



From Mr Clark, UK

Try the 'Complete' weed and feed - advertised on TV. It is sold in Asda, B&Q, Focus Do-it-All etc


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Worms
From: Roy Matthews, UK



Could you please inform me how to eradicate earthworms from my lawn, I can't seem to find a product in the garden centres to do this.



From Michael Barratt, the Gardeners Club resident gardener.

I assume that the want to remove earthworms from your lawn is based on the affect the casts have on the grass. Earthworms are generally beneficial to lawns as they provide natural aeration. Earthworms thrive in areas of high organic content. Possible aeration of the lawn through solid or hollow tine will allow more oxygen into the lawn, therefore reducing the organic matter available to it. Constantly moist soils will also encourage worms as the one thing above all else they fear is drying out. I think you will find it very difficult to obtain any chemical on its own that will remove worms. Chlordane was the preferred chemical, but it was banned several years ago. A soil drench of Jeyes Fluid will not kill them but persuade them to ` thrive` elsewhere.

From Caroline

Dear Roy, sorry, you'll never eradicate them, nor should you want to as they are extremely important for the health of your soil and are therefore a good sign! I presume what bothers you is the worm-casts-the only thing to do is to regularly brush the lawn with eg. a besom-broom. If you don't, the earth they bring up gets compacted by the mower or peoples' feet and then you start losing the grass. If, unlike me, you are particular about having a beautiful lawn (as opposed to the kind which is simply green, kept tidy and full of weeds but looks fine so long as noone looks at it through a magnifying glass!), then it needs a great deal of work....If you aerate it regularly with a garden fork the casts will brush into the holes to a degree. Better still, scarify, aerate, top-dress, feed, weed, and if you still have any time left, mow it! It will undoubtedly look beautiful. Personally, passionate as I am about gardening, I prefer to lavish my attention on the rest of the plants...Hope my answer helps.



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Worms
From: David L, UK



I have a medium size lawn which is rye grass free the problem I have is with
earth worms which I cannot get rid of. As I understand the stuff that kills;
them is no longer available, they make a terrible mess on my lawn.


From Alex M

I'm curious David, why do you want to get rid of them? 'worms' help to keep your lawn 'healthy' by aerating the soil. If it is worm casts you have a problem withh then just sweep them off with a hard brush/besom. If you want to take this further,save the worm casts and add them to your potting compost, excellent loam. If needs must the chemical you require is 'Chlordane' which you apply in the spring

From Angela, Gardeners Club Secretary

Take a look in our past questions under 'Sundries', you may find what you need there.


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Previous Q & A's
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Composting

Flowers

Lawns

Pest, Diseases and Weeds

Ponds

Sundries (non-plant)

Seeds and Bulbs

Trees and Shrubs

Fruit and Vegetables