These sections are updated regularly with all of the answered questions that pass through the Gardeners Club, so click back and check each section periodically for future assistance in your garden.


Posting a question

If your question has not been covered already click here to ask a question


Questions & Answers - Clay & Lawns

Clay
 From: Nikki L, UK



I have just had my garden dug up, the purpose was to lay a water pipe and I now have a large mess. Instead of grading as they dug, they just pulled up the earth, I now have clay and top soil mixed up. I live in Somerset so we have a lot of red clay. I don't know what to do now. The earth that was dug up has been spread across the garden by 4ft., so I think when the earth dries it may well sink as not all of the soil went back into the ditch. Basically the garden is a mess and there is just mud everywhere. Do I buy top soil, sand etc. or do I just pray for a miracle! My budget is very limited. Thanks


From Alex M, UK
Hi Nikki,
Sorry to hear about your problem. When conditions allow dig in as much farm yard manure (or similar) in, this will help to condition your soil. Basically what I am saying is, assume you are starting from scratch as if you have arrived on a new estate after the builders have completed building. In time you will get back to what you want. A 'thought' ....now might be the time to give your garden that 'makeover' that you have always wanted, i.e. get all the disturbance over with in one go.
Hope this helps, Alex

From Mr Clark, UK
Rotovate the lot. Incorporate all the grass clippings you can get & horse & farm cow manure with stone chippings for soil drainage provision. This may appear silly, but also plant potatoes on the lot; growing potatoes conditions & cleans the soil. Our neighbour at home did this & we thought it was a big joke; the joke was on us. We went straight in, laying seed lawns etc. We got padded moss on clay. After harvesting the years supply of potatoes we dug over, rolled & laid a bowling green lawn. We lived there for 14 years wth no change to the lawns or cultivated areas.


Can any other Gardeners Club members help Nikki out?

Click here if you can help

Clay Bed Water Logging From: Richard H, UK



I have a smallish lawn, completely prone to water logging, due to a clay bed some 3 feet down preventing drainage.  Is the best solution a series of porous pipes laid to fall just over the clay bed?  Do I need a soak away to take the outlets?



From John R, UK
The best solution (long term) would be to install a herringbone land drainage system as you describe, with a soak-away at the end of the backbone if you wish to retain the lawn. However there are considerations to take into account, and I would advise seeking professional help from someone in your local area before embarking on a project such as this. It has to be done properly, and with the disruption and cost involved it has to be done right first time.

From Mr Clark, UK
I would try spiking it all over, as deep as you can. Then layer it with compost from grow bags and incorporate the deep burrowng worms from wiggly wigglers web site. Stand-by & make sure the worms have gone down the spike holes & not deviated to the areas around the lawn. If this does not work within this year then rotovation & incorporating gravel [for drainage], farm & horse manure prior to digging the ground. Start planting the 1st season after this to clean & condition the soil, prior to turfing or grass seeding. Then no more hard work or ground maintenance.

From Mr Clark, UK
The cheapest way but also hardest solution with the same results is to spike it 1 foot at a time, using a garden fork in squares.


Can any other Gardeners Club members help Richard out?

Click here if you can help

Clay Soil
 From: Mrs Morgan, UK



I am a clueless, lazy gardener! I'm looking for colour and ground cover for a heavy, clay soil. I really want things that I can plant, then forget about! Any ideas please?
Thanks



From Mr Clark, UK
You cut the grass & peel the vegetables you cook etc and by turning this & some gravel [for drainage] into the ground you can condition the soil. Then one can grow almost anything. Here in the UK, the only plants that thrive in clay soil are weeds - the worst ones. Prepare the soil for long time, perenial plants, then "almost" forget them - just be aware of their existence & condition.

Can any other Gardeners Club members help Mrs Morgan out?

Click here if you can help

Clay Soil
 From: Michael, UK



I have just recently started gardening so I dont know very much so I was wondering if you could tell me the best plants to put in soil that has a lot of clay in it. Thanks



From Mr Clark, UK
Dead ones! Weeds thrive in clay soil, other plants only exist in it. Cultivate & condition the soil 1st, otherwise you will face a continual struggle which you will lose. It could cost a considerable amount money & effort, at the end of which, you?ll be back where you started and with nothing to show for it.

Can any other Gardeners Club members help Michael out?

Click here if you can help

Clay Soil
 From: Bill B, UK



Please can you help with Clay Soil.....
I have moved into a new house. The ground previous to this was a farmers field. Now within 4/6 inches the soil is almost solid clay. I have mixed quite a lot of grow bags into this soil over the last 12 months but it is still not getting any better.

Is there a better way of doing this?
Thanks



From Bill B, UK
There was an article in a supplement with the Mail on Sunday "Charlie Dimmock's Plant Finder" which also explains about Clay Soil and seems to be the least back breaking:
"Don't let the clay bog you down!"
"Most people reckon they have to dig clay soil as deeply as they can and get loads of manure into it. Well, that's just making a lot of work for yourself, and if the ground underneath is even worse then frankly you don't want to bring it up to the top. It's much better to leave it alone.
If it's badly compacted then loosen it by sticking a fork in and wiggling it backwards and forwards. Then spread an inch of horticultural grit over the top. You can get it in bulk from quaries and some builders merchants - what you want is the sort that is free from lime and salt, as used by nurseries which make up their own potting mixtures. Then spread as much well-rotted organic matter as you can over that; home-made compost, manure, the contents of your old growing bags from last year - whatever you can get - and just fork it into the surface.
From then on you only need to spread a layer of organic matter as a mulch over your soil every spring and leave it for the worms to work in. You'll soon build up some really good topsoil - whithout doing very much work at all."
Seems the easiest solution to me.


From Peter C, UK
I live in a clay district and farmers around here put lime on the land , it helps break down the clay particles. It also helps to neutralise the acid produced from excess organic matter put into the soil. Can I suggest diggin in organic waste (horse stable waster or other compost) and dressing with lime?


From Alex M
Hard work is the only thing I'm afraid i.e. 'double digging'
Growbag compost is too fine for what you are trying to achieve and apart from that it could be quite expensive into the bargain. Try and get a load of well rotted farmyard manure and double dig it in. Not trying to put you off but it can take years to get what you want so my advice would be patient and keep putting in bulky rotted materials. Make your self a compost heap and put garden & kitchen waste plus lawn mowings in it for use in successive years.


From Sarah C, UK
If your soil is quite clayey, after carrying out the hard work to prime the soil, opt for plants that like boggy conditions, any others are likely to die.


From Mr Clark, UK
I have put my opinion on the subject & it works no mistake. If you try & cut corners, you get nowhere! It is on on this section of the gardeners club web-site more than once.


Can any other Gardeners Club members help Bill out?

Click here if you can help

Clay Soil
 From: Anthony T, UK



I have a very clay type soil, and I wish to know what is the best type of seed to re grass the area. I do not want a bowling green, but I do want toughness AND resistance to any more moss. Preferably a grass seed that grows fast, and plentyfull, without giving those annoying TUFTS.


From Jan, UK
I have very heavy clay soil and have found the best grass seed too use is Canada Green but you must prepare the ground by Scarifying the existing lawn and Aerating with a fork just scatter it on the top and rake over lightly so the seed goes on to the soil and keep it moist and in 14 days it will germinate, it grows so dense it crowds out the weeds and the moss. hope this helps.

From Alex M
Try : http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profiles0900/mn_lawns_seed_turf.asp
Follow the links and you should be OK


From Mr ClarK, UK
Whatever grass seed you decide on, mix it with peat & multi-purpose compost in order to give the seed a good start in germination etc.


Can any other Gardeners Club members help Anthony out?

Click here if you can help

Clay Soil
 From: Fiona, UK



I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions as to how I can change the composition of the soil in my garden. At present it is clay based. All the plants in it are so far thriving. My only real objection to this soil is that the moment it rains the ground becomes saturated, boggy and slippery to walk on. PLEASE HELP, as my dog seems to bring in more mud on his paws every day.



From Michael Barratt, the Gardeners Club resident gardener
There is no easy fix on this one I`m afraid. Clay by default because of the smallness of the particles will go to the extremes of binding together when wet and drain very slowly, and likewise bake and crack when dry. The problem is exacerbated because of the high water table that now exists in many parts of the country as a result of the weather during 2000. The ground simply cannot take any more water, and when it does it becomes as you described. Digging in plenty of organic matter into the soil will help the structure and eventually you will see some improvement. Extreme measures of large soakaways in the garden will one way of removing some of the excess water in the garden. If there is enough space have you considered a Willow tree (Salix) These thrive in damp conditions and draw out a huge amount of water naturally. You will need a reasonable amount of space though, and not too near the house.


From Mr Clark, UK
Garden recycled compost and gravel mixed in with your garden soil - this should feed and aerate the soil.


Can any other Gardeners Club members help Fiona out?

Click here if you can help

Clay Water Logging
 From: Penny F, UK



After a winter of perpetual rain, my garden which is clay based is completely water logged. My lawn is ruined because of dogs trampling all over it, and the grass is now a mud patch.

Could I please have some advice as to how I can get some drainage and a life back into my lawn. Would it be better to re turf or re seed? My dogs are currently taking a long break in the country with my mother, so that my lawn can recover.
My garden is about 20ft by 40ft, so not very big.
Please advise



From John S, UK
Hi Penny, I had a similar problem and found the advice from the previous questions via club members very helpful. There are a few questions which have addressed clay in the lawns section of the already answered questions - Im sorry this is about all I can offer - in my case I had to consult my local gardener. John


From Mr Clark, UK
I re-turfed my back lawn and 1 of my 3 dogs took it apart before the turfs had knitted together. I ended up replacing all the damaged turfs. Thereafter I spiked the lawns where required & covered the whole lawn with a mixture of grass seed & peat & multi-purpose compost to the point when no greenery was to be seen anywhere. I then just left it to wear & wash into the ground. The result was lush thick green grassed lawn.


Can any other Gardeners Club members help Penny out?

Click here if you can help

Previous Q & A's
sorted by category


Composting

Flowers

Lawns

Pest, Diseases and Weeds

Ponds

Sundries (non-plant)

Seeds and Bulbs

Trees and Shrubs

Fruit and Vegetables