These sections are updated regularly with all of the answered questions that pass through the Gardeners Club, so click back and check each section periodically for future assistance in your garden.
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Questions & Answers - Fruit
Avocado
|
From: Rob, UK |
|
Hi there. Can anyone advise how to get Avocado
seeds to germinate and then the best way to pot on etc? Cheers
|
 |
From Ann, UK
I have grown several avocado plants by the cocktail stick in water
route
(just like mom used to!); I think it generally needs to be the
pointy end up
and out of the water, though I'm not sure it won't grow the other
way. In
any case, it can take awhile, so the key is patience, first in
letting the
root grow, and then, in waiting for the plant to sprout once you've
got it
in the soil. But the method has been quite successful for me,
so much so
that I'd like to know if they can survive outdoors in the UK winter,
as some
of my plants are getting quite big, and are already growing bark
at their
bases! I know they are prone to overwatering, and are sensitive
to the
cold; could this be addressed with gravel in a drainage pot, and
keeping
them in a sheltered area, or do they need to be kept as houseplants
to
survive the climate?
Thanks,
and good luck, Rob!
From Pam, UK
Hi Rob! Last year I pushed an avocado stone partially into the
surface of a growbag (in which I was growing tomatoes in a mini
plastic greenhouse - no heating). It germinated after a couple
of weeks. When the stem was about four inches high I carefully
transplanted it to a 5" pot, leaving the "stone"
on the surface & burying only the roots. The plant stayed
in my unheated verandah all winter. It grew very slowly. Since
Spring it has really taken off. The leaves are getting bigger
with each bract. It's just over 2ft high now, some leaves are
12" long" I'm not sure whether to pinch it out &
encourage side growth, or to let it continue as a single stem.
Any further help would be appreciated!
From Maria, UK
Put four cocktail sticks into the stone and place over a container
of water so that one end is in the water. The roots should grow,
then you can plant in a pot of compost. It's a fun thing for children
to grow! Good Luck.
From
Gemma, Scotland
I have recently grown an avocado stone, it took about 3 weeks.
I took an
empty jam jar and then a dark coloured napkin and push it gently
into the
jar and kept it moist, checking daily - positioned on a warm sunlit
window
ledge in our porch. One of them is now about 8" high. As
per Pam's comment,
I am also unsure as to whether to pinch out the tops when they
are bigger
to encourage side growth. Does anyone have an answer to this?
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Blackberries
and Raspberries
|
From:
John, UK |
|
I am hoping to plant some blackberry & raspberry plants &
was wondering what is the best time for this to be done? Many thanks
|
|
Planting Blackberries
by the Editors of National Gardening
Blackberries need full sun. They aren't fussy about soils, although
good drainage is important. If the soil has a good amount of humus,
so much the better, but average fertility is all they need. Do not
plant blackberries where any other brambles have been growing; diseases
can build up over time and one of the easiest ways to avoid problems
is to start fresh on a new site. Because wild blackberries and raspberries
can harbor diseases and pests, try to keep your garden plants at
least 300 feet from any wild relatives. Also avoid planting where
any nightshade family members - tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants, peppers
- grew in the last 2 years, as they can transmit verticillium wilt
to blackberry plants.
Planting Particulars
Plants should be set out in early spring. If you get your plants
from a mail-order company, order them at least a month or two before
planting time and indicate the week you'd like the plants to arrive.
If you can't plant the day they arrive, keep plants, well wrapped,
in a cool place. If they are loose and unpacked, set them temporarily
in a shallow trench at the edge of the garden and fill it with soil
so the roots don't dry out. Nursery plants may have a 6- or 8-inch
dormant cane extending from the root ball. You can use it as a handle
in moving the plants and later as a row marker. Set the plants in
the ground 1 inch deeper than they were grown in the nursery, then
firm moist soil around the roots.
Plant upright varieties at least 3 feet apart in the row, with 8
feet between rows. For trailing types, allow 5 to 8 feet between
plants and 6 to 10 feet between rows. The plants are relatively
drought tolerant, but they'll need a steady supply of water to get
them established. In the second and subsequent years, plants need
1 to 2 inches of water per week during fruit development, especially
if the weather turns dry and windy, a bit less once the crop is
harvested. Drip irrigation is a good watering method for blackberries.
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Blackberries
|
From: John A, UK |
|
I am thinking of growing Blackberries and wonder if it makes any
difference whether they are sited North to South or East to West?
Many Thanks
|
|
From
Peter D, UK
It will make no difference to the fruiting or ripening of wood whether
the rows are running North-South or East-West. The best plan is
to orientate them to suit your personal layout of your fruit/veg
plot.
From Elizatheth, UK
I have Blackberries growing everywhere (where they are not wanted
!) They seem to thrive absolutely anywhere but if you want to train
them properly and have their berries ripen nicely then place them
in a sunny spot..
Blackberry Jam and Pies mmmmmmmmmmmmm lovely.
From Alex M
As with most things...East to West. The sun will shine along the
row whereas when they are laid North to South one side will be in
the shade (Northside) i.e the plant/s creates its own shadow.
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Blackcurrants
|
From:
John, UK |
|
Some of the leaves on my blackcurrant bushes
have curled over & upon looking inside them there appears to
be a black sticky substance, any ideas what this is & what can
be done to cure it? Many thanks
|
|
From Alex, UK
Hi John, you do not indicate if you have ever pruned or fed your
Blackcurrants.
If I may I will advise you of what to do for future seasons.
In March feed your bushes with a Nitrogen feed e.g.Sulphate of Ammonia
@
11/2 oz per sq.yd. plus 1/2oz of Sulphate of Potash. (you could
use the
equivalent liquid feed).
In the Autumn cut back the old wood, the dark coloured wood that
has fruited, leaving the new (lighter coloured) wood to give next
years crop...........A
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Blackcurrants
|
From: Alan C, West Sussex, UK |
|
My Blackcurrants have for the last 3 years produced beautiful lush
green leaves but very little fruit. Where have I gone wrong??
This year the local birds have stripped a lot of the fruit as it
is forming! Never had that before. Alan, West Sussex
|
|
From Alex M, UK
Hi Alan, you do not indicate if you have ever pruned or fed your
Blackcurrants.
If I may I will advise you of what to do for future seasons.
In March feed your bushes with a Nitrogen feed e.g.Sulphate of Ammonia
@
11/2 oz per sq.yd. plus 1/2oz of Sulphate of Potash. (you could
use the
equivalent liquid feed).
In the Autumn cut back the old wood, the dark coloured wood that
has fruited, leaving the new (lighter coloured) wood to give next
years crop...........A
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Damsons
|
From: Eric S, UK |
|
I have just moved house & have a 15 foot damson tree in the
rear garden but
it is smothered with a white cotton wool looking substance along
most of the
branches.please help & tell me what it is & what it is safe
to spray it with.
Many thanks Eric
|
|
From Gill C, UK
It sounds like woolly aphid, which I also have on an apple tree.
Apparently
in winter you can put a barrier round the base of the tree (a band
of sticky
tar like paper, about two feet from the ground). I don't know about
spraying, but it doesn't seem to do a great deal of damage to the
tree. Gill
From Alex M, UK
Hi Eric, I suspect that the powdery fungus is actually colonies
of woolly aphid
that is attacking your Damson tree. Overcome it by spraying with
Scotts Bug Clear. The aphids are protected by a sticky waxen wool,
so it may pay to mist the patches with a solution of household detergent
to help dissolve the wax before applying the insecticide.
If there are no tiny creatures hidden within the wool, then the
problem is mildew. In this instance, use Scotts Spotless. Best of
luck.......A
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Date Palm
|
From: Chris, UK |
|
I have just succeeded in growing a date palm from a date stone, but I am unsure how to grow it on further - what conditions will it like for now and the winter? - Any info much appreciated.
|
|
From Michael Barratt, The Gardeners
Club Resident Gardener
Date palms must be grown in a frost-free climate. Indoors during
the winter and outside between June and October at the latest. Grown
in a pot with John Innes No 2 in full light with shade from very
hot sun. A starter pot would be no larger than a 5/6?. Potting on
best done in the Spring should only be undertaken if the existing
pot contains at least 2/3rd. of roots. Avoid putting into a too
larger pot otherwise the soil will go stale and the plant will suffer.
A general liquid feed once a month during the growing season, and
when brought inside water very sparingly, almost keep the soil only
just moist.
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Gooseberries
|
From: Beryl S, UK |
|
I have two fan trained gooseberries which were just coming into leaf but have now turned brown. The small number of fruitlets which were on them have dropped off. Can anyone tell me why this may have happened? They are situated on my allotment which like most others were very waterlogged this winter. Should I try digging them up and starting again?
|
|
From Alex M, UK
Beryl, could they have been affected by 'frost'? If this is the
case they should grow out of it. Otherwise it could be a viral problem.
Difficult to say from the symptoms you gave. Get back to us if you
have any more information.
From Beryl S
Hello Angela, since writing to you I have been in touch with Chris
Bowers of the Whispering Nurseries in Norfolk. I sent them samples
of the bush and they feel it is not frost damage but due to the
very wet winter conditions - no air was able to get to the roots
and ironically would need copious watering if there was any sign
of survival. I have also had 3 apple trees go the same way and I
had no alternative but to take them out as they were completely
dead. I will replant later in the Autumn. If you would like to add
this information to your page it may help anyone else with the same
problem.
Sincere thanks for all your help, regards, Beryl
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Grape Vines
|
From: William S, UK |
|
Hi, sorry to bore you, one complete novice requires help. Am looking
for info on vines, any help will be greatly used, thank you.
|
|
From Michele M, UK
Hello William, I inherited a very old vine and like you am a complete
novice. However, with this vine, stuck away in the corner of the
greenhouse were handwritten instructions on how to look after it.
never cut it back until December and then take off all the old bark
as well. Do not overwater and when it is watered leave the door
and the window of the greenhouse open or it will get green/grey
fungus. When the vine 'floweres' (the little grapes form) cut back
the vine two leaves above the flower. Last year I followed a gardening
manual and got 2 bunches of poor grapes. This year I stuck with
the written instructions and got 27 bunches! May just have been
co-incidence, but who knows!. Good Luck, Michele
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Grape Vines
|
From: Jim T, UK |
|
I am looking for some advice on Grape Vines? |
|
From Elizabeth, UK
Hello Jim, I am not an expert on on Vine growing having inherited
ours when wwe moved here some 10 years or so ago. It is the large,black
grape which I believe is called the Hamburg Vine. Our Greenhouse
is not heated but has some warmth in the winter from heated benches.
It has a concrete path down the middle but the rest is bare soil.
The Vine is planted in a corner and the roots appear to go outside.
and are probably go under a concrete path which runs along side
the G/house. It is now quite large and we have it trained along
the centre ridge of the greenhouse, tied up with my old 'tights'.
It has ddeveloped side branches and provides a canopy for the benefit
of other things on the benches. Apart from a little liquid feed
from time to time ( when we remember ) keeping wayward shoots pruned
back it doesn't get any special treatment yet we get a wonderful
crop of beautiful, large black Grapes every year. It is best to
nip or cut some of the grapes off when they are green and tiny otherwise
they will grow much too close to one another.
We are at the stage just now where they are all ripe and everyone
who calls gets a bunch or two to take home. Do have a go with them,
they are great fun, nice to eat and don't half impress the neighbours
........... !
Best of luck ............... Elizabeth.
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June
2002
|
From:
Sue W, UK |
|
I would like to grow a grapevine as a standard. Can you tell me
how to do that and what type of soil I should use? I am planning
to grow it in a pot in my greenhouse.
|
|
From Michele M, UK
Hello Sue, I inherited a very old vine and like you am a complete
novice. However, with this vine, stuck away in the corner of the
greenhouse were handwritten instructions on how to look after it.
never cut it back until December and then take off all the old bark
as well. Do not overwater and when it is watered leave the door
and the window of the greenhouse open or it will get green/grey
fungus. When the vine 'floweres' (the little grapes form) cut back
the vine two leaves above the flower. Last year I followed a gardening
manual and got 2 bunches of poor grapes. This year I stuck with
the written instructions and got 27 bunches! May just have been
co-incidence, but who knows!. Good Luck, Michele
From Elizabeth, UK
Hello Sue, I am not an expert on on Vine growing having inherited
ours when wwe moved here some 10 years or so ago. It is the large,black
grape which I believe is called the Hamburg Vine. Our Greenhouse
is not heated but has some warmth in the winter from heated benches.
It has a concrete path down the middle but the rest is bare soil.
The Vine is planted in a corner and the roots appear to go outside.
and are probably go under a concrete path which runs along side
the G/house. It is now quite large and we have it trained along
the centre ridge of the greenhouse, tied up with my old 'tights'.
It has ddeveloped side branches and provides a canopy for the benefit
of other things on the benches. Apart from a little liquid feed
from time to time ( when we remember ) keeping wayward shoots pruned
back it doesn't get any special treatment yet we get a wonderful
crop of beautiful, large black Grapes every year. It is best to
nip or cut some of the grapes off when they are green and tiny otherwise
they will grow much too close to one another.
We are at the stage just now where they are all ripe and everyone
who calls gets a bunch or two to take home. Do have a go with them,
they are great fun, nice to eat and don't half impress the neighbours
........... !
Best of luck ............... Elizabeth.
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Grapevine
|
From:
Michelle, UK |
|
We have just bought an Alphonse Lavalle Grape Vine. Is it best grown
in the greenhouse or outside? Also, can anybody give us some advice
on caring for it (we live in the Midlands).
|
|
From Elizabeth, UK
Hello Michelle, I am not an expert on on Vine growing having inherited
ours when wwe moved here some 10 years or so ago. It is the large,black
grape which I believe is called the Hamburg Vine. Our Greenhouse
is not heated but has some warmth in the winter from heated benches.
It has a concrete path down the middle but the rest is bare soil.
The Vine is planted in a corner and the roots appear to go outside.
and are probably go under a concrete path which runs along side
the G/house. It is now quite large and we have it trained along
the centre ridge of the greenhouse, tied up with my old 'tights'.
It has ddeveloped side branches and provides a canopy for the benefit
of other things on the benches. Apart from a little liquid feed
from time to time ( when we remember ) keeping wayward shoots pruned
back it doesn't get any special treatment yet we get a wonderful
crop of beautiful, large black Grapes every year. It is best to
nip or cut some of the grapes off when they are green and tiny otherwise
they will grow much too close to one another.
We are at the stage just now where they are all ripe and everyone
who calls gets a bunch or two to take home. Do have a go with them,
they are great fun, nice to eat and don't half impress the neighbours
........... !
Best of luck ............... Elizabeth.
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Club
members help Michelle out?
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Grapevines
|
From:
Margaret, UK |
|
I have an indoor grapevine in an unheated conservatory. It has always
had a good crop of grapes. I usually prune it in October - back
to one bub. It seems to work but I would like to know what is the
correct procedure? Thanks
|
|
From Michele M, UK
Hello Margaret, I inherited a very old vine and am a complete novice.
However, with this vine, stuck away in the corner of the greenhouse
were handwritten instructions on how to look after it. never cut
it back until December and then take off all the old bark as well.
Do not overwater and when it is watered leave the door and the window
of the greenhouse open or it will get green/grey fungus. When the
vine 'floweres' (the little grapes form) cut back the vine two leaves
above the flower. Last year I followed a gardening manual and got
2 bunches of poor grapes. This year I stuck with the written instructions
and got 27 bunches! May just have been co-incidence, but who knows!.
Good Luck, Michele
From Elizabeth, UK
Hello Margaret, I am not an expert on on Vine growing having inherited
ours when wwe moved here some 10 years or so ago. It is the large,black
grape which I believe is called the Hamburg Vine. Our Greenhouse
is not heated but has some warmth in the winter from heated benches.
It has a concrete path down the middle but the rest is bare soil.
The Vine is planted in a corner and the roots appear to go outside.
and are probably go under a concrete path which runs along side
the G/house. It is now quite large and we have it trained along
the centre ridge of the greenhouse, tied up with my old 'tights'.
It has ddeveloped side branches and provides a canopy for the benefit
of other things on the benches. Apart from a little liquid feed
from time to time ( when we remember ) keeping wayward shoots pruned
back it doesn't get any special treatment yet we get a wonderful
crop of beautiful, large black Grapes every year. It is best to
nip or cut some of the grapes off when they are green and tiny otherwise
they will grow much too close to one another.
We are at the stage just now where they are all ripe and everyone
who calls gets a bunch or two to take home. Do have a go with them,
they are great fun, nice to eat and don't half impress the neighbours
........... !
Best of luck ............... Elizabeth.
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Club
members help Margaret out?
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Grapevines
|
From: Sue L, UK |
|
I want to grow grapevines on a pergola on the back of my bungalow.
It is a south facing garden in Kent, and from some of the information
I have been reading on your website, I feel quite confident in having
a go. The only worry is that some of the vines will be planted quite
close to the property. Is there going to be a problem with the roots
of the vine and my foundations?
If anyone can help it would be appreciated. Many thanks, Sue
|
|
From Alex M, UK
Hi Sue,
I would have thought any problem would be minimal when you consider
one
of the recommended methods of growing grapes in this country is
'against
the house wall' My own thoughts are if you were planting a vine
against a wall you would plant it at least 12" from the wall
(as with most climbers) to prevent
it being overshadowed by the roof/eave of the house, this is the
basis for my thoughts. If you felt you wanted to take additional
precautions you could dig a
slit trench along side the house and insert a sheet of corrugated
iron or similar to deflect roots from the foundations. I think you
will find that any root system will take the route of least resistance
to where they can collect sufficient moisture to survive and that
is away from the house not towards it.
This is my opinion the final decision is yours.......A
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Kiwi Plant
|
From: Ian, UK |
|
I hope you can help, I live in West Sussex & have a 2 year old
kiwi plant which is still in it's original pot ( 5 inches ), as
it is getting taller do I re-pot it in a larger pot or do I put
in the ground.
Many Thanks, Ian
|
|
From Alex M, UK
Ian, I presume you mean Kiwi Fruit.....if I am correct then go to
:
http://www.doityourself.com/fruits/hardykiwi.htm
and I think you will find out all you want to know................a
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Lychees
|
From: Sharon J, UK |
|
Does anyone know the right type of compost a lychee seedling needs
? It's been grown from a supermarket fruit and is about 4 inches
high, in a multi purpose compost at the moment.
|
|
From Alex M, UK
Hi Sharon, I'm afraid I have been unable to locate any specific
info for you however from my own experience of home grown 'pip'
growing I would say it is now time to pot your seedling on into
a 'potting' compost. I am going to assume you have it in something
like a 3"-4" pot so the next step would be to pot it up
into a 5" pot in any proprietary 'potting' compost. As the
seedling outgrows it pot, keep on 'potting on' e.g. 5">6">8".
When you get to the 8" size change your compost to a John Innes
No.2 mix. When it outgrows this pot put in its final pot 10"
using a John Innes No.3 compost. Each year thereafter remove the
top couple of inches of compost and renew it with fresh compost.
I suggest you keep the plant well watered giving it an occasional
liquid feed and see how things progress. I am now into unknown territory
so perhaps the best thing to do now is to report back to us on your
results.
The only other thing I would mention is keep it in a frost free
situation during the winter as I would imagine it it is not quite
'hardy' enough for the UK.
Best of luck...............A
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| Melons |
From
Linda, UK |
|
How do I tell if melons are ripe?
|
|
From Clare, Gardeners Club Secretary*
As a general rule, a melon is ripe when the stem begins to dry
out. The end of the melon is soft when pressed with your thumb.
A melon is over ripe when it is soft all over. Melons can be picked
just prior to ripening.
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|
Melons
|
From: Joan P, UK |
|
For the first time I am growing Melons, Could you please tell me
if I have to stake them and do I have to put up horizontal wires
to train them, This is all new to me and I would be gratefull for
any advice that you can give, Joan.
|
|
From Jo, Devon, UK
Hello Joan, this is from my 'Greenhouse Expert' book ! Plant seedlings
in grow bags - 2 per bag. Leave 1 inch of the soil ball above the
surface, and do not firm. Water in, but keep water off the stem.
A cane will be necessary behind each plant and there should be horizontal
support wires 1 ft. apart. The lateral branches are trained along
these wires - nip off their tips when 5 leaves have been produced.
Side shoots form, and it is these which bear the
flowers.
Hand pollination of the female flowers (look for a tiny Melon behind
the petals) is essential. Stop the stems 2 leaves beyond the developing
fruit and reduce the number to leave 4-6 Melons per plant. Regular
damping down and misting are desirable at most times but should
not take place during pollination time, nor when the fruits start
to colour. Support each fruit with a net, and pick when ripe (smell
the fruit, and press the end away from the stalk - it should give
slightly). The fruit when lifted should part readily from the stalk.
Hope this helps!
From Alex M, UK
Hi Joan you can use either or both,I tend to use stakes only. On
reflection using canes for vertical support and wires to support
the fruiting spurs might be a better option.
Don't forget your birds & bees bit i.e pollination,best done
in the middle of the day when the sun is high. The female flowers
have a little melon behind the petals. Some people use a brush,all
I do is break off the male flower and pollinate the female. 'Works
for me'.....A
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Pomegranates
|
From: Sue D, UK |
|
I'm a greenhouse gardener who works for the argicultural college,
K.V.L. Copenhagen Denmark. I`m trying to find out how to grow pomegranates
from seed. How do I treat the seed? Interested to hear what you
suggest. Sue
|
|
From Michael Barratt, The Gardeners Club Resident Gardener
Pomegranate (Punica pomegranatum) seeds are sown in March in a soil-based
compost in a propagator at temps. of about 15.C. When germinated,
prick out into 3" pots and keep in a frost-free greenhouse
or cold-frame. Allow the plants to develop for a further year in
pots no larger than 4/5? before planting out.
From Mr Clark, UK
You would need to try and chit the seeds before you go any further.
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Potted Fruit
|
From: Frank B, Berkshire, UK |
|
I have a number of citrus plants (some lemons, some clementines
some satsumas). Having put them out in the garden during the summer
I then repotted them and brought them indoors before the weather
turned colder. Since bringing them in most of the pots have developed
a white 'fungus' on the surface of the compost. As yet it does not
appear to be affecting the plants but I am not sure what to do about
it. Any suggestions???
|
|
From
Michael Barratt, our resident gardene
This is a normal reaction of potted soil when bringing it in from
a cold environment to a warmer one.
It doesn`t always happen, but is usually nothing to worry about
and can be picked off and discarded if it causes concern.
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| Raspberries |
From
Alex, UK |
|
I have had a terrific crop of raspberries this year - and understand
how to prune them back when they finish producing fruit. There
are already a number of strong new shoots. Next year I want to
expand the number of plants I have - can I do this by splitting
the new shoots and replanting them? If so - when would be the
best time to do this?
|
|
From Michelle, UK
Cut the canes down to 12 inches in height. Then, next spring cut
these stumps to ground level. June or July is the best time to
do this.
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|
| Raspberry
Bushes |
From
Joek, UK |
|
I have raspberry bushes in the yard and I've been told to cut
them down once a year. This is supposed to help them produce more
berries. When do I cut them down?
|
|
From Michelle, UK
Fruit will be produced on raspberry bushes on the second years
growth. Cut at ground level old canes that haven't leaved up this
spring. After you have harvested the raspberries from the canes
which will bear fruit this year, cut these canes down to 12 inches
in height. Then, next spring cut these stumps to ground level.
June or July is the best time to prune raspberry bushes.
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|
Raspberry Bushes
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From: Marilyn, USA |
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Please advise me on the best method of pruning red rasberry bushes
in mid-March in zone 5 Illinois. thank you!
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From John, UK
For all rasberries, summer or autumn fruiting, cut the old fruited
wood completely to the ground as soon as possible after fruiting
has finished. The new shoots ,which have not yet borne fruit, should
be tied in to the supports ready for next seasons fruit. If each
plant has produced plenty of new shoots you only need to retain
about 6 so cut out any weak or diseased stems.
From Mr Clark, UK
If they are late-fruiting; around OCTOBER. Then to the ground in
FEBRUARY.
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Rhubarb
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From: Joyce H, UK |
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I am wondering if the flower of the Rhubarb should be removed for
better stalk production or is it necessary to replenish the root?
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From Sharon J, UK
My mum has always taken the flowers off rhubarb....she said that
it increases the stick size as the plant isn't wasting it's time
producing flowers and seeds.
Sharon
From Alex M, UK
Joyce, Remove the flowering stalk before it flowers. As with any
plant die back will occur after flowering/seed production so it
is not conducive to a good harvest.
For your information apply a general fertilizer in early Spring
and divide the plant up every 5/6years in this way you should have
a good harvest each year.After harvesting give the crowns a good
covering (mulch) of manure.
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Rhubarb -
Pests
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From: Niamh, UK |
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I have a new rhubarb plant, just coming up now, but the leaves are
being nibbled. I thought that rhubarb leaves were poisonous? What
could be eating it, slugs, pigeons??? And what can I do? There was
another rhubarb plant in the garden when we moved in, buried in
undergrouwth, and the same thing happened to it when it was uncovered,
and this new one is in a different area. Please help, as I love
rhubarb crumble!!
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From Mr Clark, UK
I would clear the area around the plants & put down a mass of
crushed egg shells & butter tubs of beer & wait & see
what it catches. It could be slugs. Some creatures are not affected
by some poisons and if so, gravel spread around the rhubarb in the
same way should work, still continuing with the beer - the stronger
the better - its the smell that is the attractant.
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Strawberries
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From: Peter D, UK |
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I have a bed of 30 strawberry plants freshly transferred from an
established bed last autumn. All look fine except just two that
are showing yellowing leaves. My only thought is that it may be
magnesium deficiency - can anyone help me verify this or suggest
another cause?
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From Alex M, UK
Sounds like a Physiological disorder they may be water logged.
From Peter D
It is extremely unlikely that it is a physiological disorder
due to waterlogging as suggested. The site is light sandy loam,
quick to drain and has a 10% slope to the south. Any more help would
be appreciated. The leaves of the two plants in question have now
developed a disfigured appearance.
From Alex M, UK
Well Peter all I can suggest now is your plants are virused, possibly
the one known as 'crinkle' which causes red or purple spots on the
leaves which become puckered. An other virus is called 'yellow edge'
which is an aphid borne disease. Infected plants usually have a
dwarfed and flattened appearance.
I think if it were me for the sake of a couple of plants I would
get rid of them before they possibly affect the other plants. Sorry
I couldn't be of more assistance........A
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Strawberries
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From:
Jennifer, UK |
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I'm a very novice gardener living in the southwest of England. Where
can I find information about different varieties of strawberry and
their merits or otherwise? All I want are the sweet, juicy, flavoursome
berries I remember from my youth which seem very difficult to find
in the shops these days and I think it's time I grew my own!
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From David Clark, UK
WWW.KENMUIR.CO.UK
From Michael Barratt, the Gardeners Club resident gardener.
Go to the following site, www.hdra.org.uk/gh_strwb.htm This will
be a good place to start
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Strawberries
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From: Malcolm, UK |
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Hi, I am a novice in the garden and have just moved into a new house
and I would like to spend some time in the garden. We have some
very large and vast wooden fences which I would like to cover using
hanging baskets. I would ideally like to plant stawberry's in them
- what is the best type to plant? The fences face west, south and
east.
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From Michael Barratt, the Gardeners
Club resident gardener.
Go to the following site, www.hdra.org.uk/gh_strwb.htm This will
be a good place to start
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| Tomato
Plant |
From
Cookie, UK |
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I
have a healthy looking tomato -patio plant and the tomatoes turn
black,starting on the bottom. What causes this and what can I
do for it?
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From Clare, Gardeners Club Secretary*
It
sounds like your tomatoes are suffering from blossom-end rot -
On tomato and eggplant, blossom-end rot usually begins as a small
water-soaked area at the blossom end of the. This may appear while
the fruit is green or during ripening. As the lesion develops
it enlarges and turns black. Blossom-end rot is not caused by
a parasitic organism but is associated with a low concentration
of calcium in the fruit. Blossom-end rot is induced when demand
for calcium exceeds supply. Try to maintain the soil pH around
6.5 and wide fluctuations in soil moisture by using mulches. Plants
generally need about one inch of moisture per week from rain or
irrigation for proper growth and development.
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Tomatoes
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From:
Mark, UK |
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My tomato plants have grown to the roof of
my greenhouse. Is it alright to cut them back?
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From Mr Clark, UK
...take off the top of the plant so they will not grow any taller
and thus concentrate on fruit development. At the end of
the season remove the still green tomatoes and put them in a brown
paper bag or box with a deep red apple - this will help them ripen
off.
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Tomatoes
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From: Emma C, UK |
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Hi !
I'm growing tomatoes for the first time, and I've had conflicting
advice given to me...
Should I cut back any of the stems to promote fruition, or will
I get scrummy fruit if I leave them to their own devices?
Your advice will be gratefully received. |
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From Mr Clark, UK
With bush varieties, you leave them to get on with it - feed &
water only!
With tall varieties, support them with sticks or canes, tied loosely.
Remove the small fruits that grow where the main stock meets its
branches. With finger & thumb on the same hand, pinch them out.
Water & feed, as with bush plants and nothing else is needed.
Once the plants (tall ones) reach the seventh fruits formed, take
off the top of the plant so they will not grow any taller and thus
concentrate on fruit development. At the end of the season remove
the still green tomatoes and put them in a brown paper bag or box
with a deep red apple - this will help them ripen off.
From Roy, UK
Hi Emma
With regard to tomato plants and the removal of shoots, unless it
is a bush variety you should remove any shoots that appear in the
leaf axils, being careful not to remove the flower buds which will
appear. When you have six or seven trusses of tomatoes take out
the growing tip. Once your first truss of tomatoes start to swell,
feed with a fertilizer recommended for tomatoes as directed.
Good luck with your Tomatoes!
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Tomatoes - Beefsteak
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From: Margaret, UK |
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Last year I had some tomato plants given to me. The last truss that
grew on them had a big flower attached which grew into a rather
large, ugly tomato. Does any one know the variety?
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From Mr Clark, UK
Beefsteak tomato
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Tomatoes
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From: Gary B, UK |
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Hi, is it normal for the leaves on my out door tomato plants to
wilter even though the fruit is fine, Gary
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From Michael Barratt, the Gardeners
Club resident gardener.
Depending on where the tomatoes are, it is not unusual for the leaves
to appear to 'wilt'. If they are grown in gro-bags or pots it is
very easy for them to dry out. Many of the plants roots are near
the surface, and therefore will suffer first to drying out. This
in turn will cause the leaves to wilt as its own protection against
transpiration and further moisture loss. Be careful with the watering
though, as irregular watering can cause fruit to split.
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Tomatoes
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From: Frances, South Wales, UK |
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We moved house in the spring and are growing
tomatoes in a greenhouse for the first time. We have previously
grown bush tomatoes outdoors quite successfully, although we often
had to ripen the later ones in the house. This year we are growing
tomatoes in growbags in a greenhouse. It is well ventilated. There
are quite a lot of tomatoes, but the plants do not look well. The
stems are starting to rot. It starts as a grey patch in a place
where a leaf joins a stem, and then spreads upwards and downwards
from there. The fruit do not seem to be affected so I have cut back
to just above a healthy leaf and removed any tomatoes from above
the diseased patch to ripen in a conservatory. There does not seem
to be any insect infestation of the plants.
Does anyone know what is causing this? If it is some sort of infection
will it be alright to grow tomatoes in this greenhouse next year?
Will the tomatoes be safe to eat when they ripen? (They look OK)
Frances
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From Elizabeth, UK
Do you have enough ventilation in your greenhouse ? In mine the
windows are open all the time and so are the doors but we close
the doors at night.
When you clear the greenhouse at the end of the season, give it
a good wash down, getting into all the little nooks and crannies
with a solution of water and Jeys Fluid. This will clear it of any
little creepies that think they have found anice cosy home for the
winter. Best of luck - Elizabeth
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Tomatoes
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From: Michael H, UK |
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I am growing cherry tomatoes (variety "Supersweet 100) in pots
on the patio. Do I need to pinch out the sideshoots as with standard
tomatoes, or do I leave them to grow on and fruit?
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From Alex M, UK
Michael, you can do either.....if you do, you will have to tie them
into a cane,
if not form a cage with three short canes and fix string/cord around
them to form a cage like support.
Personally I would grow them as the latter description simply because
they will form a feature on your patio and are less likely to get
blown over......A
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