These sections are updated regularly with all of the answered questions that pass through the Gardeners Club, so click back and check each section periodically for future assistance in your garden.


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Questions & Answers - Flowers S - U
Sedum
 From: Tony, Hampshire, UK



Hi, I have a lot of sedum (ruby glow) plants they have gone very straggly this year could anyone tell me if i have to cut them back to the ground this autumn.

From Louise S, UK

They probably need splitting. Sedum need to be split every 3 - 4 years or
they do get very straggly and flop about. Don't do it now tho - leave the
plant intact thru the winter, then cut the dead stems to the ground , and
lift and divide the plant in the spring.


From Michele M, UK

Hello Tony, I am only a beginner at this gardening thing! But, I cut my sedum down to the ground last year and it came back bigger and better this year. I put some of those plastic flower 'holders' round the 2 plants that I have and they held them upright and they looked very good.
Good Luck, Michele


From Elizabeth, UK

Hello Tony, I too have several patches of Sedum, grown over several years.
I leave the dead/dry, rusty looking heads on as long as possible as they make a welcom spot of colour in the borders as everything else goes to sleep for the winter. Eventually I cut the heads off to ground level and pinch a couple of rooted side shoots off at the same time to plant elswhere. I have never noticed them growing straggley. The only thing that I can think of is that you have them in very rich soil, that could possibly account for excessive growth.
Best of luck...... Elizabeth.


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Sedum
 From: Anny S, UK



I have some plants in my greenhouse which I can not find listed in any of my books. I am trying to get any information on them and was wondering whether you may be able to help. I am trying to find out, if and when they flower, the size they grow etc. The plants are:
Chamaecyparis Lawsoniana (Ellwoodii)
Sedum Lineare
Lonicera Nitida(silver beauty)
Nummularia Aurea.
Also are there more common names for any of them, many thanks



From Michael Barratt, our resident gardener

Chamecyparis Lawsoniana `ellwoodii` is a dwarf conifer growing to about 10ft. Sedum Lineare is a greenhouse half-hardy plant. 1? high, spread about 12?. Yellow flowers in May. Lonicera nitida mainly grown as a hedging plant. Dark green small oval leaves. Grows to about 5-6ft. Ideal in shade or full sun


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Seedlings
 From: Jeanette W, UK


Hi there!

Every year I decide not to bother with planting seeds - wait for the plug plants - then I change my mind and sow a few seeds - they usually do quite well until they start to get straggly-it is then I begin to get despondent are there any suggestions out there as to how I could bush them up a bit maybe I am too ambitious but when I see the boxes of annual plants they do seem much stronger than mine - I do quite enjoy trying different seeds but am somewhat disappointed at some of the results -

Thank you for dealing with my bougainvillia question - I have repotted it and so far it looks quite healthy.



From Albert D

To avoid seedlings getting long and drawn they need light in comparison with the temperature they are being given. Once germinated put them in the lightest coolest place in which they will survive. If a greenhouse or conservatory is available place them near to the glass through the day and well inwards of the glass during darkness with a sheet of light fleece lightly draped over them. If you have but a bright window in a cool room in the the house put them near to the glass through the day and in an unlit room during darkness. Following this you will get slower growing plants but more sturdy.


From Alex B, UK

You mention 'straggly' this is normally due to a lack of light or too much heat, maybe even a bit of both at the seedling stage.

Keep them as near to the glass as possible in overcast conditons, avoid bright sunlight getting to them - shade them with fleece.

Get them into a frost free cold frame as soon as possible this will harden them off. Depending upon what you are growing, it might be advantageous to nip the growing tip out of certain plants.

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Sensitive Plant
 From: Preston W, Southampton, UK



I have been trying to locate a plant, with little success, and hope than you may be able to assist me. The plant I am trying to get is the "Sensitive plant", which I am led to believe is Mimosa Pudica. The plant where the leaves close when they are touched. I live near Southampton, and would be grateful for your advice. Thank you



From Albert D

Try Chiltern Seeds. I'm certain I saw it in last years catalogue. The name you gave is correct.


From Roy L, Macclesfield

Hi Preston, you can purchase seeds of Mimosa Pudica from Thompson & Morgan,Poplar Lane, Copdock, Ipswich, IP8 3ZU. I Grew Mimosa Pudica some years ago and did not have any trouble germinating them in a heated greenhouse. It is worth giving them a try.
The website is www.thompson-morgan.com
Wishing you every success, Roy


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Shady Sites
 From: Janet B, UK


Have you any suggestions for what would be suitable for underplanting a Phormium. It is cream/green variegated, I am not sure what variety, and is now about 2 metres across. We have cut back some of the outside leaves but it still overhangs quite a bit of the soil so anything planted underneath would have to tolerate dry soil and shade. Many thanks.



Hi Janet,

Try any of these shade tolerant plants:

Tuberous Begonia 'Camellia' (Begonia x tuberhybrida)
Tuberous Begonia 'Fimbriata' (Begonia x tuberhybrida)
Fancy-Leaved Caladium 'Candidum' (Caladium x hortulanum)
Kaffir Lily (Clivia miniata)
Lily-of-the-Valley (Convallaria majalis)
Cyclamen persicum
Hybrid Fuschia 'Island Sunset' (Fuchsia hybrida)
Plantain Lily 'Royal Standard' (Hosta)
Plantain Lily (Hosta crispula)
Busy Lizzie 'Accent Mix' (Impatiens wallerana)
Golden Deadnettle (Lamiastrum)
Spotted Nettle 'Beacon Silver' (Lamium maculatum)
Annual Lobelia 'Riviera Blue Splash' (Lobelia erinus)
Jacob's Ladder (Polemonium caeruleum)
Yunnan Meadow Rue (Thalictrum delavayi)
Snow Trillium (Trillium grandiflorum)
Large Periwinkle (Vinca major)
Dwarf Periwinkle 'Bowles' (Vinca minor)


From Cross, UK

I have underplanted my phorium with a trailing cotoniaster, which seems to be thriving there. As it was taken as seed from my fathers garden Im affraid I can't tell you what variety it is.

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Shady Flowers
 From: Raven N, USA



We live in Wisconsin in zone 4. My question is for a shaded garden. We have some hosta, hydrengia, bleeding heart, and ivy. I would like to put in some flowering plants. We also have black dirt in all of our beds. Can anyone give me some ideas for some flowering shaded plants. We do all perennials.
Thanks



From Alex M

I put the following specification into some software I have and came up with these

Flowering perennials up to 2'-0" high that will grow in shade.

New York Aster 'Alert' (Aster novi-belgii)
Stokes' Aster (Stokesia laevis)
Beard Tongue (Penstemon parryi)
Hardy Begonia 'Alba' (Begonia grandis)
White Fringed Bleeding Heart 'Snowdrift' (Dicentra eximia)
Canna Lily 'Variegata' (Canna x generalis)
Shasta Daisy (Chrysanthemum maximum)
Feverfew 'White Wonder' (Chrysanthemum parthenium)
Nepal Cinquefoil 'Miss Wilmot' (Potentilla nepalensis)
European Columbine 'Nora Barlow Mixed' (Aquilegia vulgaris)
European Columbine 'William Guiness' (Aquilegia vulgaris)
Orange Coneflower 'Goldsturm' (Rudbeckia fulgida)
Slipper Orchid (Cypripedium acaule)
Lady's Slipper Orchid (Cypripedium calceolus)
California Poppy 'Thai Silk Mixed' (Eschscholzia californica)
Chinese Foxglove (Rehmannia elata)
Himalayan Geranium (Geranium himalayense)
Cranesbill (Geranium x magnificum)
Cranesbill 'Claridge Druce' (Geranium x oxanianum)
Cranesbill 'Album' (Geranium sanguineum)
Cranesbill 'Cedric Morris' (Geranium sanguineum)
Heliconia hirsuta
Lenten Rose (Helleborus orientalis)
Butter-and-Eggs (Linaria vulgaris)
Ochagavia lindleyana (Ochagavia carnea)
Florist's Cineraria (Pericallis x hybrida)
Moth Orchid (Phalaenopsis schilleriana)
Cottage Pink 'Cottage Pink' (Dianthus plumarius)
Cottage Pinks 'Spring Beauty' (Dianthus plumarius)
Japanese Primrose (Primula japonica)
German Primrose (Primula obconica)
Renanthera storiei
Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum wallisii)
Society Garlic (Tulbaghia violacea)
Twinspur (Diascia rigescens)
Twinspur (Diascia vigilis)
Vervain (Verbena goodingii)
Vriesea hieroglyphica
Yarrow (Achillea x taygetea)


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Skimmias
 From: Cyril R, UK



Skimmias (Rubella).  We have a large quantity of male plants and we have been advised that we need the females to carry out their flowering and berry stages.  Can any other plants from the main family be used to help?



From Alex M, UK

Try 'Foremanii' it is the female form.

Alex.

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Spilanthes From Paula, UK


My sister-in-law has been given a plant named Spilanthes. She was not told
how to care for it or what it looks like can you please help as she needs to
know where to plant it and what it looks how and how tall it will grow. Any
help would be appreciated as we cannot find it in any books.

From Clare, Gardeners Club Secretary*

The Spilanthes oleracea is often known as the toothache plant because of the numbing effect the leaves have on the mouth when it is chewed. It is a spreading, ornamental plant with gold and red cone shaped flowers borne above glossy green leaves. The toothache plant is an easy-to-grow annual that can be brought indoors and grown as a perennial. The plant should be kept in a sunny part of the garden and given regular water.

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Sweet Peas
From: Dorene, Channel Islands



Can anyone help my poor little sweet peas? I do not know what is causing the problem. I have had advice from several sources and tried various products. The leaves just look like lace curtains. Not just holes but they have a flimsy, see-through, threadbare appearance. I have checked books and looked morning, noon and night for various creepy crawlies... any suggestions? Many thanks



Tabitha, UK
Unless your soil is extremely poor, sweetpeas require little if any extra fertilzer. What they do require, as with all legumes, is a soil inoculant before planting. The soil inoculant is the bacteria that legume roots incorporate to make their own nitrogen. Also note that peas do suffer from root rots, especially in overly wet or poorly drained soils. Such rots will cause overall yellowing and stunting of the plants.

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Sweet Peas
 From: Joyce C, UK



I would like to grow sweetpeas, how do I get best results? Joyce



From Michael Barratt, our resident gardener

Try the following site, this will give you all the information you are likely to need.
www.sweetpeas.org.uk

From John, UK

Sweetpeas need a well-drained, normal soil with plenty of good organic matter dug in.You can grow them as you would runner beans i.e.in rows using bamboo canes or as I do on 'wigwams' of canes, about a dozen canes is a good size. When you choose a variety you need tall ones to grow up the canes. Varieties termed 'Old Fashioned' usually produce smaller flowers but usually have the strongest scent. To grow from seed you need to be quick off the mark now as March is the time(and its nearly over!).Soak the seed in water for 24 hrs (seed should swell) if not then nick the hard shell with a sharp knife.Sow 2cm deep in seed compost and maintain temp above 15c.When seedlings large enough to handle transplant into 7.5 cm pots. Pinch out growing tips when plants have produced two mature leaves.Harden off and plant out when all danger of frost is past. Good luck.


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Sweet Peas
 From: Roy P, UK



I am looking for a Sweet Pea Society/Club in Cheshire.  Anyone know of one?



From Michael Barratt, The Gardeners Club resident gardener.

Contact the National Sweet Pea Society at www.webgarden.ndirect.co.uk. This will be a good place to start.

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Sweet Peas
 From: Glen, UK



Can you provide any information about the perenial sweet pea please?



From Jane, UK

What sort of information do you want?I have grown them from seed and they usually germinate readily. They die back in the winter and spring forth again in the spring ,about now usually!I have them growing on roughly neutral soil on a north facing slope in North Dorset.
Best wishes


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Sweet Peas
 From: Roy P, UK



I am now retired and would like to grow sweet pea's for the show bench but have been confused with the cultivation procedure, ie growing on the single stem system.  I have been told of the procedure, but can't seem to get the hang of it.  Can anyone help?

Roy is happy to be contacted direct: roy@roypearson.freeserve.co.uk.

Or you can email him via the Gardeners Club using the link below.



From Alex M, UK

You might get some ideas from http://www.webgarden.ndirect.co.uk/index.html

From Peter D

Hello Roy - I have grown sweet peas by the single stem cordon method. This is quite simply a row of eight foot canes supported by a horizontal wire. A single sweet pea plant is tied onto each cane using twine or sweet pea rings. Now then - only half of the canes are thus used and the other half left unused. When the sweet peas reaches the top of their canes they usually have much growth and growing season left, so carefully untie one at a time and lay along the foot of the unused canes, turned up at the tip and tied into a new cane. This is like doubling the original cane length and getting the most from each plant.
To grow good sweet peas take out a trench in the autumn two spits deep and fork over the third spit. Incorporate any organic material such as farmyard manure, garden compost etc to at least half the depth of the trench. Sprinkle on some super phosphate of lime in the spring and return the soil excavated; spreading the excess. I prefer to sow my seed in the autumn and just keep the seedling ticking over until hardened off in the cold frame in spring before planting out. Do not retain the original stem but pinch this out when you see a secondary shoot growing from the base. This secondary shoot will be much more vigorous and is the one you want to take up your cane.

Not a lot of info Roy, but I hope it will help.

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Tuberous Begonia
 From: Wasyl M, UK



I have read that tuberous begonias shoud be left for the leaves to yellow and dry off then take out the bulb from the pot and leave in a garage to overwinter. Last year I brought in a tuberous begonia and put it in the front porch. It didn't flower, but the leaves didn't dry out and the flower was ready for its new year much earlier. Can they be left to do this or is it better for them to be stored as you describe? Regards, Wasyl



From Michael - Our Resident Gardener

The idea behind allowing the leaves to die off is to allow the tuber(s) a 'resting' period before the new growth starts again. Although the begonia is unlikely to suffer any serious problems if it does not have a resting period, both the size, quantity and quality of flowers will be affected. Also you may find that the flowering is somewhat sporadic and the tuber will invariably be reduced in size compared to others so relating to the overall size of the whole plant.

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Topiary Plants
 From: Pandi S, UK



I purchased a number of small topiary plants in the summer, to decorate a marquee.
I am not yet ready to plant them but they do not appear to be thriving.  They vary from 24 ins to 42 ins in height and are planted in plastic pots from 10 to 12 ins in diameter.  I have watered then regularly since the compost appears dry despite copious rain.  Just before the end of autumn, a number of leaves were turning yellow and falling off.
Do they need to be in larger pots, or do they prefer to have the root ball closely confined?  Should I feed then, either now or later?  Help would be appreciated.



From Alex M, UK

Have you checked if they are pot bound? This might be the reason for drying out.

Are they evergreen or deciduous? If they are deciduous then it could be the natural course of events for this time of year.

Feed them later when fresh growth commences.

Hope this helps, Alex.

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Tulips
 From: Stella, UK



Does anyone know where I can get pure white tulips from, I can't seem to find any anywhere. Thanks



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